Week three of my expedition along the coastline of Devon has passed, with me succesfully completing the next stage between the holiday resorts of Combe Martin and Ilfracombe and thus inching that bit further towards the end. Unfortunately, the word 'inching' is particularly appropriate to today's run, which has left me feeling a little frustrated and also dismayed by the stretch of miles I still have to go. You see, the distance between my chosen start and end points today turned out to be significantly less than I'd calculated on my Ordnance Survey map, meaning I arrived unexpectedly soon in Ilfracombe (incidentally, and perhaps cruelly, dubbed 'filth and gloom' by a friend of mine) and can now only add 7 miles along the coast to my total when I had been aiming for at least 11.
I had an inkling that the numbers weren't adding up when I left Combe Martin and saw a signpost saying 'Ilfracombe 6 miles', but since the signs often seem to give the distance as the crow flies rather than the wriggly sea-hugging route, decided to ignore it. But then I reached Hele within 70 minutes of setting out and realised that unless I'd miraculously become Paula Radcliffe I hadn't covered as much ground as I should have, and when I recalled how close to the end Hele Bay had looked on the map I knew for sure things weren't going to plan.
Still, every mile counts and today's run included some quality ones scenery-wise. The first part was very muddy terrain and steep hills with lots of long series of steps built into the cliffs, but in the middle of the run the ground levelled out slightly and there were some nice grassy fields to bounce through, scaring all the sheep, and a good straight path around some campsites (where some delightfully optimistic people were erecting tents, not sure if they knew about the storms forecast for the South West this evening...). I got momentarily lost in the harbour around Watermouth and had to ask a man (who may well have been the Harbour Master- I've no idea what such a person should look like, but he was standing outside the Harbour Master's hut and had a grey beard...) for directions, and then the rest of the route was plain sailing.
Ilfracombe was quiet and grey-looking, huddled under a cloud of drizzle, but despite the off-season gloom and the town's premature arrival on my horizon, actually provided a very welcome sight, like a friend who makes you smile even when you've had a bad day. It has a slightly mystical charm that seems to belong back in the days of old (as Van Morrison might say) and I was satisfied to finish the run there because it felt like a significant spot on this journey.
Route week 3:
Started in Combe Martin High Street- up to Challacombe- Little Hangman- back to Combe Martin Bay- Watermouth Castle- Widmouth Head- Rillage Point- Hele Bay- Beacon Point- Ilfracombe. 8.5 miles in total, approx 7 on Coast Path.
Distance on Coast Path:
22 miles to date.
Map:
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